[Also re: dread feet!]
You can find Phoebe Philo’s first eponymous edit here. Yes, it’s largely sold out. Yes, it’s astronomically expensive.
Here’s what Vogue had to say about it, the choice line being: “The thrill of her attitude radiates from her pictures with an uncompromising confidence: strong women, who are basically looking down on the viewer.” The Cut? “People will lose their minds.” Independent fashion journalist
’s delightful ear-to-the-ground summary was blunter still:A brand “factsheet” distributed to press said item quantities would be “notably less than anticipated want,” and that the scarcity was “a responsible balance between production and demand.” While I’ve seen this called “sustainable,” it’s utterly ridiculous to call a new fashion brand that requires resources to create and ship sustainable. This is about scarcity, which is a marketing tactic.
Indeed—though I’d probably use the word rarity as opposed to scarcity. More on this in the essay proper TK in part 2. Here I wanted to emphasize the raw Blakean impact of Philo’s art, and with the images alone am already up against the email load limit . . .
Thanks for reading, as always,
ANJ
PS—With thanks to HRH
for her recent essay on diachronic writing (also informing part 2!), here are few related posts from the archives I’ve been revisiting as I think about Philo:
So beautiful! I love all the textures and flow if the fabrics. Not going to lie. Grays and blacks are not my favorites anymore. I love the richness of color. I am glad for the chosen few who can afford to participate in the “scarcity” model. Gorgeous should be scarce so we can appreciate it more.
What I found interesting about all of the featured images is that there were no bright colors - greyness all the way down, which perhaps is a pointer to the tempo of the times.
Has anyone noticed how fashionable greyness is these days. Lots of famous people wear grey or black. Here in Australia many modern houses are grey too, both on the inside and the outside - grey roofs are overwhelmingly the norm in the now everywhere standard house!
And speaking of William Blake why not check out this site which is based on his light-filled body of work http://thehumandivine.org